A note from Jay: I walked into my first tailor shop in Hoi An five years ago as a customer. I was a Wall Street guy on vacation who owned exactly zero custom-made garments. I was nervous. I did not know what to ask for. I definitely did not know the difference between linen and linen-blend. But 45 minutes and a Vietnamese iced coffee later, I had ordered two shirts and felt like I had been doing this my whole life. That trip changed everything for me -- I ended up moving here and becoming a partner at the shop. So when I say "I get it" about being a first-timer, I really mean it. This guide is everything I wish someone had told me before I walked in.
What It Actually Feels Like to Walk In
Forget whatever image you have of a stuffy tailor shop with mahogany panels and someone peering at you over half-moon glasses. A tailor shop in Hoi An is more like walking into someone's living room that happens to be full of incredible fabric.
Here is what you will probably see: rolls of fabric stacked floor to ceiling -- silk, linen, cotton, wool, in every color and pattern you can imagine. A design book (or three) sitting on a table, full of photos of suits, dresses, shirts, coats, and ao dai. A sewing machine or two humming somewhere in the back. And someone smiling at you, offering you water, tea, or a cold drink before you have even said what you are looking for.
It is casual. It is warm. At our shop, our Lady Boss Linda will probably greet you with "Why are you so handsome?!" or "Why are you so pretty?!" before you have even sat down. That is just how it works here. You are not a customer number. You are a guest.
The vibe sets the tone for the whole experience: this is supposed to be fun. You are not buying clothes off a rack and hoping they fit. You are creating something that is made specifically for you. That is exciting, not stressful. So take a breath, accept the iced tea, and let yourself enjoy it.
How the Process Works, Step by Step
The custom tailoring process in Hoi An follows a simple rhythm. Here is the play-by-play so nothing catches you off guard.
Day 1: Browse, Choose, Get Measured
This is the fun part. You will flip through design books, feel different fabrics, and talk about what you want. This is not a test. You do not need to know the correct terminology. "I want something like this but longer" or "I saw this dress on Pinterest and I love it" -- that is perfect. Show them photos on your phone. Point at things in the design book. The team will guide you from there.
Once you have picked your design and fabric, measurements happen. This takes about 10-15 minutes. Someone will measure you with a tape -- chest, waist, hips, shoulders, sleeve length, inseam, and a few more depending on what you are ordering. It is quick, professional, and not awkward at all (they do this dozens of times a day).
Total time for a first visit: 30-60 minutes. Longer if you are browsing and deciding. Shorter if you already know exactly what you want.
Day 2: First Fitting
This is where it gets real. You come back and there is an actual garment waiting for you. It might be basted (loosely stitched together so it can be adjusted easily) or it might be close to finished, depending on the shop and the item.
You try it on. You look in the mirror. And then the magic happens: you tell them what you want changed. This is literally the whole point of custom. The sleeves are a little long? They will pin them and mark the adjustment. The waist needs to come in? Done. The shoulders feel a bit wide? They will fix it.
This fitting takes 10-20 minutes. Be honest. Be specific. Do not worry about being "difficult" -- you are not. Your feedback is their instruction manual.
Day 3: Final Fitting and Pickup
You come back, try it on one more time, and this time it should be right. If something still needs a tweak, most shops can do a quick adjustment on the spot or within a few hours. Once you are happy -- and you will be -- it is yours.
The whole cycle from "I would like a shirt" to "this shirt fits me perfectly" is about three days. You are not sitting around waiting the whole time. Each visit is quick, and the rest of the day is yours to explore Hoi An, eat cao lau, hit the beach, whatever you want.
How Many Days Do You Actually Need?
Three days is the sweet spot. It gives the tailors time to cut, sew, fit, adjust, and finish without rushing. You get two fittings, which means two chances to fine-tune the fit. And you still have plenty of free time each day.
Two days is doable but tight. If you only have two days, keep your order simple -- shirts, a straightforward dress, trousers. Things that are faster to construct and need fewer adjustments. A two-piece suit in two days is possible but leaves very little room for modifications if the first fitting is not perfect.
One day is not enough for custom-made garments. If you only have one day, you are looking at alterations or off-the-rack items, not made-to-measure. Respect the craft -- good tailoring takes time, even from the fastest hands in the business.
My advice? If tailoring is on your radar at all, schedule your first shop visit on the day you arrive. Do not save it for your last day. Walk in on Day 1, get measured, and let the process breathe. You will thank yourself.
What to Order First (Start with a Shirt. Seriously.)
I know it is tempting to walk in and order a three-piece suit and a cocktail dress and matching pajamas for you and your partner. I get it. The fabrics are gorgeous, the prices are incredible, and the excitement is real.
But here is what I tell everyone: start with one shirt.
Why? Because a shirt is fast (often ready for fitting by the next morning), it is affordable ($25-$45 for cotton), and it teaches you how the entire process works. You learn how a fitting feels, what kind of feedback to give, and how the shop handles your input. It is basically a trial run. If you love the result -- and you probably will -- you can confidently order more complex items on Day 2 knowing exactly what to expect.
A shirt is also a great litmus test for quality. Check the stitching, the button alignment, the collar shape, the way the fabric drapes. If a shop nails a shirt, they can nail a suit.
The progression I see most happy customers follow:
- Day 1: Order one or two shirts (or a simple skirt or trousers)
- Day 2: Love the first fitting, add a suit or dress to the order
- Day 3: Pick everything up, consider ordering more for shipping
Nobody ever regrets starting small. Plenty of people regret ordering everything at once before they know what they are working with.
What to Bring to Your First Visit
You do not need to prepare a presentation. But a little prep goes a long way.
- Reference photos. Pinterest saves, Instagram screenshots, photos from a magazine -- anything that shows the style you are going for. A picture really is worth a thousand words, especially when you are describing something across a language gap. "I want something like this" plus a photo gets you 90% of the way there instantly.
- A piece of clothing that fits you well. Bring your favorite shirt, your best-fitting blazer, the dress that always gets compliments. The tailor can use it as a reference for how you like things to fit. This is especially helpful for details like how slim you like your sleeves, how long you prefer your shirts, or where you like your trouser break to hit.
- An idea of what you need it for. "I need a suit for a wedding in October" or "I want a casual linen shirt for summer" -- this context helps the tailor recommend the right fabric and style. A suit for a board meeting is built differently than a suit for a beach wedding.
- An open mind. You might walk in wanting a navy blazer and leave with a custom ao dai and a cashmere overcoat. Hoi An has a way of expanding your horizons. Let it.
Fabric 101 in Plain English
You do not need a textile degree. Here are the basics:
Cotton -- The everyday workhorse. Breathable, comfortable, easy to care for. Great for shirts, casual trousers, and summer dresses. If you only order one thing, a well-made cotton shirt is hard to beat.
Linen -- Phenomenal in heat and humidity, which is why half of Hoi An wears it. Light, airy, has that effortlessly relaxed look. The catch: it wrinkles. A lot. That is part of the charm, not a defect. If you hate wrinkles, linen is not your fabric. If you are okay with a lived-in look, it is perfect.
Wool -- The suit fabric. If you are ordering a suit to wear back home (especially in cooler climates), wool is what you want. It drapes beautifully, holds its shape, and comes in different weights from lightweight tropical wool (great year-round) to heavier options for fall and winter. Italian mills like VBC, Marzotto, and Reda produce some of the finest suit wool in the world -- and yes, you can get it here in Hoi An.
Silk -- Hoi An has a 300-year silk tradition, and the real thing feels like nothing else. Smooth, luminous, temperature-regulating. Perfect for ao dai, evening dresses, pajamas, and blouses. One tip: ask if it is real silk or synthetic satin. Real silk has a soft, warm hand feel and a subtle sheen. Polyester satin is shiny and cold to the touch. A good shop will be upfront about what is what.
Cashmere and wool blends -- For coats and winter suits. Incredibly soft, warm without being heavy. A custom cashmere overcoat from Hoi An is one of those "how is this even possible at this price" items that makes people's jaws drop.
The Fitting: What to Actually Do
The fitting is where the custom experience lives or dies. And the secret is embarrassingly simple: be honest.
When you put the garment on, do not just stand still and say "looks good" (unless it genuinely does). Actually test it:
- Look in the mirror from every angle. Front, side, back. How does the shoulder line sit? Does the chest pull anywhere?
- Move your arms. Raise them, cross them, reach forward like you are grabbing a steering wheel. The garment should let you move comfortably without pulling or bunching.
- Sit down in it. Especially for trousers and suits. Clothes behave differently when you sit versus when you stand. If the trouser waist digs in when you sit, mention it.
- Check the length. Sleeves, jacket hem, trouser break -- these are personal preferences and the tailor needs to know yours.
Common things people ask to adjust (all totally normal):
- Sleeve length -- longer or shorter by a centimeter or two
- Waist -- taken in or let out
- Shoulder width -- narrower or wider
- Trouser break -- how much fabric pools at your ankle
- Collar -- tighter or looser around the neck
- Back darts or taper -- slimmer or roomier through the torso
You are not being fussy. You are being a good customer. Tailors want your feedback. Your specificity makes their job easier, not harder. Think of it this way: the whole reason you are getting custom is so it fits you. If you stay quiet about something that bugs you, you are just buying off-the-rack with extra steps.
Communication Tips
Most tailors in Hoi An speak solid conversational English. Tailoring is an international business here, and the people who do it well have been communicating with customers from around the world for years.
That said, a few things make the conversation smoother:
- Photos are your best friend. "I want the lapel like this" plus a photo eliminates any ambiguity.
- Use your hands. Point to where you want something shorter, wider, tighter. "Can this come up to here?" while gesturing at your ankle is perfectly clear.
- Ask questions. "What fabric do you recommend for this?" or "Will this wrinkle a lot?" -- good tailors love these questions because it means you care.
- Do not be shy. Nobody has ever been kicked out of a tailor shop for asking too many questions. The more you communicate, the better the result.
What Things Cost (Honest Ranges)
One of the most common questions I get: "What should I expect to pay?" Here are honest mid-range prices. These are not the cheapest-you-can-find prices and they are not luxury prices -- they are what a solid, reputable shop charges for quality work.
| Item | Price Range (USD) | Turnaround |
|---|---|---|
| Cotton shirt | $25 -- $45 | 1-2 days |
| Linen shirt | $30 -- $50 | 1-2 days |
| Simple dress | $40 -- $80 | 2-3 days |
| Cocktail / evening dress | $80 -- $200 | 2-3 days |
| Suit (2-piece) | $100 -- $250 | 2-3 days |
| Suit (3-piece) | $150 -- $350 | 3 days |
| Winter coat / overcoat | $100 -- $250 | 3 days |
| Ao dai (Vietnamese traditional) | $40 -- $80 | 2-3 days |
| Silk pajama set | $60 -- $120 | 2-3 days |
Prices vary based on fabric quality and design complexity. A cotton shirt in a basic weave costs less than one in premium Egyptian cotton. A simple A-line dress costs less than a beaded evening gown. These ranges cover the solid middle ground at reputable shops.
Friendly Tips from Someone Who Has Seen It All
These are not warnings. These are the things I would whisper to you over a beer the night before your first tailor visit.
Start small on Day 1. Order one or two items. See how the fitting goes. If you love the quality -- and you probably will -- you can always add more on Day 2. It is much easier to add items than to undo a massive order that overwhelmed the tailor's schedule.
Bring reference photos. I cannot stress this enough. "I want a slim-fit shirt" means something different to everyone. A photo of what "slim fit" means to you eliminates guesswork instantly.
Speak up during fittings. This is the most important tip on this page. The fitting is your moment. If something feels off, say so. If the sleeve is a centimeter too long, mention it. If you are not sure whether you like the collar, try a different style. Tailors are not mind readers and they genuinely want to get it right. Being "too polite" during a fitting is the number one reason people end up with clothes that are almost-but-not-quite perfect.
Do not wait until your last day. If you arrive on a Thursday and leave on a Saturday, walk into a shop on Thursday. Not Saturday morning hoping for same-day miracles. Good things take time, even from experienced tailors.
Ask about the fabric. "Is this silk or synthetic?" and "What is this wool blend made of?" are perfectly reasonable questions. A good shop will answer them happily and show you exactly what you are getting.
The Emotional Arc (Fair Warning)
Nobody talks about this, but here is what actually happens emotionally when you get custom clothes for the first time:
Step 1: Slight nervousness. "I have never done this before. What if I pick the wrong fabric? What if I do not know what I want? What if it does not fit?" Totally normal. Everyone feels this. It fades within ten minutes of walking in.
Step 2: Excitement. You are touching fabrics, flipping through designs, watching your ideas come together. Someone is making a garment that only exists because you imagined it. You start to understand why people love this.
Step 3: The first fitting thrill. You try on something that was fabric and a sketch 24 hours ago, and now it is a shirt on your body that fits better than anything you have ever bought off a rack. This is the moment. This is when you realize why Hoi An has 500 tailor shops and a 300-year tailoring tradition.
Step 4: The escalation. "Okay, so... could I also get a suit? And maybe a dress for my partner? And a couple more shirts? Do you ship internationally?" Everyone says they will get one thing. Nobody gets one thing.
I am not saying this to sell you. I am saying this because it happens so predictably that we have a running joke in the shop about it. Someone walks in for a shirt, walks out with a fitting appointment for a full wardrobe, and texts their friend back home: "You are not going to believe what just happened to me in this little tailor shop."
A Few Things You Might Not Expect
They remember you. Come back the next day for your fitting and your tailor knows your name, your order, and probably that you mentioned you have a wedding in November. This is not a factory. These are craftspeople who take personal pride in what they make for you.
It is social. You might end up chatting with other customers while you wait for a fitting. Swapping stories about where you are traveling next, comparing fabric choices, showing each other your fittings. It is one of those unexpectedly communal experiences that makes travel memorable.
You will learn something. Even if you have never thought about clothes beyond "does this fit?" -- you will leave understanding more about fabric, construction, and fit than you ever expected. And you will never look at a department store rack the same way again.
You Are Ready
That is it. That is the whole guide. Walk in, be yourself, bring some photos, accept the iced tea, start with a shirt, speak up during fittings, and enjoy the process. Custom tailoring in Hoi An is one of those rare experiences that is exactly as good as everyone says it is -- maybe better, because you leave with something physical that you will wear for years and that will always remind you of this trip.
The nervousness fades fast. The excitement stays.
And if you happen to walk into a shop on Tran Hung Dao Street where a Vietnamese woman with enormous energy asks you why you are so handsome -- that is Linda. Tell her Jay sent you. She will probably give you a hard time about it, and you will absolutely love it.
Nathan Tailors -- 127 Tran Hung Dao Street, Hoi An, Vietnam. Established 1999. 364+ five-star Google reviews from 5,000+ happy clients worldwide. Whether you are visiting in person or want to order remotely, we would love to help.
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